Dell/Foxxconn Pentium 4 heatsink on AM2:
Requires:
1) Dell/Foxxconn P4 heatsink
2) Stock AMD Socket 754 HSF (clip, fan, fan holder)

 

Yes, the heatsink sits flush and would actually work on a real system.  The clamp might be really tight, but that's probably a good thing.  These old P4 heatsinks really dwarf the stock AMD 89W heatsinks.

90° AM2 to 478 adapter bracket:
Requires:
0) Dremel
1) AM2 bracket (can have broken clips)
2) 478 bracket
3) Point of reference for the 478 clips (I used a Thermalright 478 adapter)

  

To make this, you just dremel the fuck out of the 478 bracket until a heatsink can sit flush against the AM2 bracket.  Make sure it's centered and the height is correct before you glue it into position with epoxy.  Now you can use 478 mounting method to mount a heatsink 90° to the AM2 socket.  Good for Thermalright (and probably Scythe) heatsinks.  I would recommend more "glue" than shown here.  Mine isn't finished.  A little Mighty Putty between the gap on the AM2 clips and the 478 bracket would be wise.  Also you should fill in the corner gaps.  If you're really badass, you could use resin.

Note: The 478 bracket (turned 90°) is approximately 90mm x 75mm.  The AM2 bracket is approximately 80mm x 105mm.  This means two things.  First, the 478 bracket requires careful centering.  Second, the completed bracket will be too wide for many motherboards.  Most boards have PWM components (namely caps) too close to the bracket.  You might be able to dremel off just enough to make it fit.

Gamecube controller with face button for Z:
Requires:
0) Dremel and soldering iron
1) Good Gamecube controller
2) Broken Gamecube controller
	-- 1 button such as a start button or maybe an X or Y.
	-- the wires and pad for one of the shoulders
	-- a piece of that button push down stuff
3) (Optional) Something like a 1mm wide tiny spring to create height if needed.
	

taken before spring mod

My z-button broke, so this was a project born out of necessity.  Fortunately, I discovered that this is a very comfortable control pad layout.

First thing is first.  Get the parts.  Make sure you get the shoulder button pad with the wires attached to it.  Find a place that you can solder the wires to the controller.  Testing is smart.  Measure twice cut once and all... Now you want to find a place that you can glue the shoulder pad to the controller board.  It's a good idea to place it intuitively so that the next part is easier (ie make the button part line up with something) .  You may have to make accomodations.  Just as long it doesn't cover anything related to the other buttons.  Test to make sure everything fits together, then solder the wires.  Easy part complete.

Hard part is now.  Dremel a hole into the controller so that your button just barely fits.  It needs to be placed close enough that when you push it, it will contact the shoulder pad's conductive part.  If you can make any mods or accomodations for height, that'd be nice.  The button should be as tall as the other buttons and not go down too far.  If you're lucky, you will have to remove chunks of button to make it fit.  I had to add a spring and managed to lose the old z-button and broke the rumble signal wire while doing so.

Then just take your rubber thingy and, if it doesn't fit securely to anything, glue it to the board (or button if you lined it up that well).

Jumbling First Order Tetrahedron Twisty Puzzle:

  
A first order Tetrahedron twisty puzzle is four tetrahedrons attached to an octohedron core.  By adding a cut in the octohedron core (producing two pyramids), the puzzle can be fully scrambled on all sides using only a single color per side (four colors).  I've yet to actually complete one of these puzzles (as in fully dye and sticker), but the concept is sound.